Author Topic: Removing glued-down rubber from A-frame?  (Read 614 times)

Jean Sather (McCreight)

  • 2016 Online Seminar Group
  • *****
  • Posts: 306
Removing glued-down rubber from A-frame?
« on: October 19, 2012, 09:19:28 AM »
I need to replace the plywood decking on my A-frame since it is starting to rot out in places.  I have it surfaced with NADAC rubber which I'm pretty sure I did a good job of gluing down  :) (in addition to screws on the edges).  Any helpful tips on how to remove (and re-use) the rubber surface?  Or am I just going to have to toss it along with the old plywood and buy new rubber to put on?  (I do have a very handy neighbor to help with this project, I'm not flying solo on this one, fortunately!  :) )
Jean & Tux


  • *****
  • Posts: 173
  • I'm a Marxist: Groucho, Chico, Harpo, Zeppo, Gummo
Re: Removing glued-down rubber from A-frame?
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2012, 10:38:49 AM »
Much will depend on how far the rot has progressed.  IF the rotted areas can be removed by "digging" away as much rotted wood as possible, there are several epoxy-based wood fillers that can penetrate leftover "less-than-ideal" wood fibers, bind to them . . . and then fill the void.  Depending on the size of the void, you may need more than one type of filler; but all are epxoy/resin based.

You may also wish to remove your wood and rubber surface once the above repairs are completed and securely glue another piece of 1/4" or 3/8" BC grade, exterior glue plywood to reinforce the existing plywood.

Once that is done, two-coats of a quality, high gloss, outdoor paint will make it more difficult for moisture to penetrate into the wood.  It's a good idea to seal any cracks or holes on the edges of the plywood and paint the edges, too.

As far as I know, there is no way to break or dissolve the bond between the rubber and the wood.  If you are unable to make the above repairs due to excessive rot, I believe that your only choice will be to purchase new rubber along with new wood.

When purchasing new plywood, you may wish to investigate the availability of MARINE PLYWOOD in your area.  It IS expensive; but worth it if your equipment sees a lot of "weather" and or moist/humid/damp conditions; but it still needs to have it's exposed surfaces painted.  Short of that, BC plywood (plywood is graded by letters A for clear, no knots for furniture, B for clear with very small knots, C for large knots that may be filled, D is usually filler for the inner layers . . . and X, well that's the junky stuff) is worth the added cost, depending on thickness, it generally has more plys (layers), hence it is stronger per given thickness.  Most of the plywood that folks use is roofing or sub-flooring CDX plywood (C is your "good side", D is your plys and X is your "bad side") . . .

Al, who has repaired and built more equipment in his time than he cares to remember . . .   
Castle Camelot: Al, Barb, Dred, Gael & Pellinore . . . and from The Bridge Grill & Pub,  Kali, Flurry, Promise, Chico, Romulus, Trix and Tony.