Hi Deena.....................
I can't recall Sharon's program; but I'm pretty sure that it just started with hand feeding the dog without the dog needing to do ANYTHING to get the food; but it doesn't sound as though this dog will get that close.
OK, we just adopted a very frightened little dachsie mix from an animal welfare league 8 months ago that was a court-ordered seizure from a filthy trailer owned by a hoarder......................
From our experiences with our current Katie, FWIW, here's my suggestion. First, AVOID direct eye contact with the dog, since a "strong eye" can be interpreted as a threat/challenge by many dogs that don't know and TRUST you. Second, when you smile, keep your lips CLOSED....................do NOT show any teeth...................again, that can be interpreted as a threat/challenge.
Keep your body language SOFT & ROUNDED..................just like a SHY girl would at her first dance. When you do look at the dog, use side-way glances and look away quickly......................just like the shy girl would. Take treats and just toss them out AWAY from you at a good distance, perhaps 6 feet or more, where the dog can get them without feeling threatened......................and do NOT praise with ANY enthusiasm, since any BIG display of ANY emotion can be SCARY!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do everything that you can to watch from your peripheral vision..........................and if you are physically able, sit on the floor, so you don't appear as threatening as you would appear if you were standing.
Do NOT reach for the dog...........................that can interpreted by the dog as a threat. Basically, IGNORE the dog........................chances are that the dog will approach you from BEHIND to check you out and "scent" you.............................let it and don't really react very much!!!!!!!! Let the dog initiate any and all contact!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
..................and most importantly, AT THIS TIME, don't be concerned if the dog has accidents in the house......................just clean them up and don't say a word.....................just let/take the dog outside to see if it has anything more to do. Likewise, if the dog bites/nips....................at most, pull back your body part a LITTLE and "yip" like a tiny puppy..................like a Pap PUPPY....................the idea is to get the dog to THINK about it's action........................NOT to be frightened by humans!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also, keep in mind, that you do NOT want to do ANYTHING that encourages the dog to begin to bond with YOU. You're only the "temporary caretaker". All that you really want to do is provide the dog with a little, tiny, start on a foundation of trust of people............................and pass on your successes to the dog's owner to continue.
I certainly do NOT mean to offend anyone; but I can't help but wonder why anyone would adopt a dog with only a month to work with it before leaving it in the care of someone else so they could take a vacation?





?? It would seem to me that in this case, the new dog should take precedence over ANY familial committments/obligations. JMHO, though.........................
Best wishes for success!!!!!!!!!! I don't envy you your task; but as long as you keep it all in perspective, you'll do fine!
Al, Barb, Pelli & Katie
Friend just got a tiny Pap/mix from the local rescue. The family has been working to connect with him for a month with no progress. I met with them last night for the first time as I will be dog sitting while they take a vacation over Thanksgiving. The dog is 9 months old, pulled from a high kill shelter in LA with no history. To me it acts like a puppy mill dog - hides in crate and runs and hides if not on leash. So sad.
Can anyone find the notes for Sharon's Handfeeding Protocol? I think it might really help this family and this little dog. Any other advice welcome.
Deena Lavine, OR
Jenny and Magic retired at Elite in Everything! Amber baby dog in training